Saturday, August 23, 2008

Whirlwind end to Europe





Next morning we go by boat to Bratislava. My comment - a Medieval wannabe city. Not much to recommend it and after a 1½ guided tour – about 2 hours too long – we head back to the bus point to get the bus back to Vienna. On our return the travel had taken its toll so we simply vegged out in the room. That night Danielle and Justin decided to take me out for a fine dinner so we chose the Unkai at the Grand Hotel – great company, excellent service and a reasonable but outstanding meal.

Now I am thinking – hmmm Monday morning – that’s the day that a three day four country and one principality trek started. We left quite early (08:00) for us anyway and headed towards Salzburg. Now I must say that Salzburg is one of the nicest cities one could imagine. Nestled in the valleys with a stream running through the middle it was everything that a good Medieval city should be. We had trouble parking and decided we were going to have lunch at the Sacher Hotel on the terrace so Danielle and I could share a piece of the original (and like champagne only Sacher Hotel may use the work original) Sacher Torte. I slip the concierge €5 and he becomes my newest bestest friend as he parked my car outside the hotel amid the Mercedes, Bentleys and other assorted signs of wealth.

We walk around the city for two plus hours and then return for lunch which I could best describe as outstanding. I had a superb soup while Danz went with the Linguine with prawns and lobster bisque sauce – simply fantastic (see more below) and sitting on the terrace watching life go by made it quite memorable.

It’s around 16:00 and I want to reduce our drive to Zurich tomorrow so we set out for parts unknown and decide on Innsbruck. I had been here with Gerda 30 years ago (wow that makes me sound old) and I had fond recollections. As we arrive there is a hotel booking office – something which more cities with travellers arriving by car should participate in. We find a great hotel in the middle of town and settle in before heading off for dinner. As we arrive in the centre of the town we see a Sacher cafe and decide on that for dinner .... so we go in and wait around 3 or 4 minutes calling out to the kitchen with nobody in sight. After around 5 minutes a lonely waitress walks out as I explain that it was unreasonable for us to have wait this long and that we will be eating elsewhere “es tut mich leid” the waitress apologises as we walk out .... but wait there’s more.

We continue our walk around town and find any number of Pizza, Schnitzel and other not so attractive eateries with what was tired or unattractive looking food. No problem though as we take in the sights of the old township which are again attractive but not as much as Salzburg. Finding nothing I bite the bullet and decide “well at least we’ll get good service at the Sacher”

WRONG.... we arrive back at the Sacher not a waitress in sight. We wait and wait and call out and finally somebody comes but by this time I am fuming and thank her very much but explain in my less than superb German that this is not the type of service which we expect at any restaurant let alone the Sacher. She is much less apologetic telling me that she has to clean the glasses when people leave.... now let me explain in my defence that there were exactly 2 people in the cafe both time – something which probably inflamed me even more. Anyway down the road to the local beer hall for a schnitzel and salad and back to the hotel.

Up early on what is the first anniversary of Linda’s passing and it is a day with so many mixed emotions. During our travels Danielle and I talk a lot about Linda – often as though she was still with us. We talk about what she would have liked on the trip and what she wouldn’t have. A number of friends send emails and MS’s all of which were appreciated. Having such good friends makes life just that much better easier.

A included good buffet breakfast and we leave lovely Innsbruck driving up on the hill to get a good look at the whole town. It must be very attractive in ski season as it looks wonderful in summer.

A long drive awaits – 400kms. Now I need to explain that Danielle keeps a list of countries she has visited and needs to go to as many as she can. Based on this you will understand that we have to go to Lichtenstein – Vaduz to be exact. Last time we were in Europe together we went to Luxembourg where the smell of wealth is palpable and we were expecting the same. WRONG .... if I told you that there is a massive cornfield in the middle of town - yes people the middle of town - you will understand our disappointment. Anyway lunch and off to Zurich.

The Swiss and Tyrolean countryside is simply breathtaking. It is quite different from what we had seen in Poland and Czech Republic. The beautiful light brown cows and beautifully laid out fields are most appealing.

We arrive late afternoon and head by tram down to the Bahnhoffstrasse. Fine shops everywhere and little affordable even if one assumes the Euro price to be Australian dollars. It starts pissing down so we find a restaurant where we are told we have to be out ion one hour. Now this restaurant is a 400 seat vegetarian Indian accent restaurant and is totally packed out. You get your food, weight it collecting a ticket with the weight and go back to your table and eat it. €4.90 per 100 grams doesn’t sound much but we rack up 700 grams between us of beautiful fresh food. Back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep after 900kms in the past two days.

Wednesday morning and we are planning a trip Zurich/Strasbourg/Frankfurt 430kms. We spend 2 hours walking around the older parts of Zurich which are most charming but we are amazed at how few people there are – no tourists and very few locals.

Then the highlight of Danielle’s day, maybe week and maybe even month we me. She finds out that for hygiene reasons one can no longer do a tour of the Lindt factory but there is a factory shop with chocolates at heavily discounted prices. We drive the 6kms from downtown Zurich and find an amazing selection of Lindt products, many of which we had never seen before – and that is saying something. Imagine passionfruit praline lindt chocolates....and some free samples as well.

Off to Strasbourg, a city of which we had little knowledge but which exceeded any expectations we had. After posting back home some 10kgs of excess baggage – yes imagine that David Stern actually over-packed – we spent a few hours walking a most beautiful old village straddling the Rheine.

Actually on this trip I have concluded that Eastern Europe is worth one visit (note the bold on one) and that countries like Austria, Switzerland and some non-mainstream parts of Germany (which I had done to death in the World Cup Football 2006) and France are worth a second look.

The last 220kms of a 6,300km drive through Europe and we reach Frankfurt a city which I had told Danielle “has absolutely nothing to recommend it” and after 2 days here she is prepared to agree with me. Washing, buying some last minute items for Danielle to take to Africa and beauty treatments took up our 2 days here while we relaxed and unwound.

Interestingly we booked at the Ramada hotel near the HBH (main railway station) and found ourselves in an area of Frankfurt where I would guess there are more Turkish and Lebanese restaurants than anywhere outside the Middle East – go figure.

It’s Friday and Danielle heads off for 5 days in London while the next day I head to Washington DC to spend 4 days with Judy Snow and then a week in New York and home. I move to the Frankfurt airport hotel as my flight is early and it works out better for me to return the car etc.. An amazing thing goes on in the airport – there are about 40 small counters where vendors are selling last minute trips and holidays – 14 day 4 star cruise in the Caribbean $A2400 including airfares from Frankfurt, 7 days five star holidays in Tunisia, Turkey, Canary Islands etc around $A1,000. Most of the holidays are leaving in the next 7 to 30 days. I would recommend that if anybody flies into Frankfurt and has some time to spend at the end of their holiday that they visit this amazing low cost holiday market.

Normally at this stage in a trip I try and book earlier flights home wanting to get back to two months mail and sorting out my life but I must say I am OK for another two weeks before getting back and seeing my family and all my good friends again.

All the best
David (and Danielle now off towards her African Youth Safari)

1 comment:

Henry said...

Just left Justin - surprise party for Victor and Carol's 40th anniversary. They showed a photo of Linda in the presentation in section dealing with the sadly missed absentees.

I told Justin that I appreciated your writing skills and continue to enjoy the blog very much.

Mum is looking much better and definitely a little stronger. She has started yelling at me again at the table so she is well on the way to recovery.

I hope the US goes well for you and again thank you for the very entertaining and enlightening travel diary. I assume you have now separated from Danielle but if not pls say hello to her from us


Travel safely

Henry and Kathy