Thursday, September 4, 2008

Bagel Central and Homeward Bound






So the first afternoon here I mooch around including a walk in Central Park (yes folks it is safe) and wind up down at Ground Zero and Century 21 – if you don’t know it one of the best discount stores around. Picked up a few things to buy but they didn’t pass the ‘need test’. A dinner at Carnegie Deli where I learned why obesity is such a big problem when I was served enough potato skins to put an end to any potato famine – anywhere and then off to bed.

Now it isn’t clear why I decided to spend a week in New York other than my flight home has to start from here and it seemed like a good idea at the time. Given that, I decided to reacquaint myself with the city that both Justin and Danielle have said they would like to live in. I buy a two day ho-on-hop-off bus tour ticket and start with the uptown tour. The charm factor soon becomes evident as we pass the park, the history making buildings mixed in with the lesser lights of the city.

A great line from a very humorous and knowledgeable guide in describing the most expensive hotel in New York – “they say that the towels are so thick and luxurious they will make closing your suitcase difficult.

I hope off at the Guggenheim where, based on my last visit, I have learned to catch the lift to the top and walk down rather than the opposite. There is an exhibition of works by the now American but originally French 97 year old artist, sculptress and seemingly thinker Louise Bourgeois. Not surprisingly a cultural idiot like me has never heard of this artist.
http://www.guggenheim.org/exhibitions/exhibition_pages/bourgeois/index.html

I wouldn’t say she has become one of my favourites but I can say that I found her works exceptionally interesting especially in their diversity. Watch the video above and you will see.

Of course I was pleased to see the Justin Thannhauser collection of Impressionist art. Interestingly Thannhauser was the son of a famous Jewish art dealer in Munich Germany. The family fled to New York in 1940 bringing a large art collection with them. Picasso, Cezanne, Kandinsky, Manet, Monet, Braque and some others I have now been introduced to adorn the walls in this spectacular gallery. However with space at a premium and one million visitors annually it got crowded at various points.

Then to Columbus Circle for a lunch at Wholefoods, an organic produce store/charcuterie. A start on the downtown tour and a shopping stop at Macy’s. For those who haven’t been here before and may come in the future, by showing Australian ID you get an 11% discount card – as I didn’t buy anything that was worth bupkas.

A light dinner and some work at the hotel to ready myself for the next very busy day. With the bus ticket came a “free” 75 minute harbour cruise – on payment of a $2 fuel surcharge. It was around Statue of Liberty and was a nice relaxing way to see Manhattan from the Hudson River side. A walk back to the hotel past a pet shop where I bought ‘dem doggies’ a small gift and get ready for a show. After a snack I went across the road from the hotel – literally to see a fantastic show – Jersey Boys, the musical life story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. With the music being that of my youth it was so great to revisit such a rich songbook. The staging, singing and ‘package’ was unbelievably enjoyable – a must see which I will likely see again if given the opportunity.

A short break to catch my breath and a 45 minute subway (yes people I do catch that long thing with lots of windows) for Flushing New York to see the evening session of the US Open Tennis. The first match saw Safina (Marat Safin’s sister) play little known Bacsinszky. When the latter was up one set and 5-5 in the second I noticed a marked change in Safina’s determination and forecast, correctly, that she would win – 3-6, 7-5, 6-2. In the second match hometown James Blake played fellow American Mardy Fish – yes folks the Yanks have found another way to corrupt the simplest first name imaginable. Blake, the favourite, looked out of sorts and Fish won in straight sets – mercifully as it finished at 00:15 and I didn’t get back to the hotel till 1:15.

The next day was set aside for relax, walk and some low expenditure retail therapy. Nothing much to report except a nice lunch at Bubba Gumps, a restaurant that specialises in shrimp (OK prawns) ONLY, all of which were extremely well prepared and served.

Monday was again a ‘nothing’ day. Up early to do the washing – I know I know it could wait 4 more days till I get back but travelling with dirty washing just won’t do it for me and I suspect I may do another load the day before I leave. I then decided to walk up Central Park West on Columbus Avenue – something which I haven’t done very often. It is a nice area with younger couples walking their babies in prams with numerous cafes and restaurants making it quite charming.

I have to comment on the seeming decline in all areas of service in America. It seems that as tipping has moved up to 15%-20% the service has moved down accordingly. People stare at you and don’t hear a single word you say, You wait in line because nobody thinks to open a second cash register – Americans love queuing it seems, you ask questions and nobody seems to be able to answer the simplest of questions and finally it is amazing how much time is spent disregarding customers while idly chatting on the phone or to colleagues. Now I know that this phenomenon is not unique to the USA but the tipping expectation should surely give rise to a higher level of service.

The next morning I discover the Bouchon cafe where the sourdough bread rolls would surely give Paul a good run for his money. Not only that but the coffee is pretty darn good. The best coffee to date however came from the Barista at Borders Books on Madison Avenue. I spent most of this day walking up to 65th and across to Lexington and all the way down to 42nd and back to Times Square. Late that afternoon I met with the daughter of a client who for some reason was seeking words of wisdom from me on investing her funds. An early cafe dinner and off to bed.

My last full day in New York and more of the same. Some last minute purchases – went back downtown to buy the Hugo Boss shoes even though I am on a shoe buying moratorium but the three pairs which were there were all gone – “beshert” Yiddish for not meant to be. That night I met with two young bridge players who live in New York. We agreed on Joel Robachon’s L’Atelier in the Four Season Hotel. I knew my wallet was going to suffer when the soda water cost a cool $A10 while waiting for them to arrive. The meal was however exceptional. I went for the two entree (appetizer where we are) and desert option - Seared Foie Gras with Gratinated Grapefruit and Maine Lobster in Sherry Vinegar Mayonnaise over Iceberg Lettuce followed by a Sorbet and Meringue concoction. These two are 30’ish one working for JP Morgan the Other for Goldman Sachs. It was truly interesting to hear their take on what was happening, burnouts, gardening leave and other such matters.

An 8 block walk back to the hotel and bed for the night – but luckily the Nadal/Fish match started at 23:15 so got to watch that as well to cap a nice day.

Last day in New York and I decided to cash in my Moma Ticket which I had purchased with the Rockefeller Centre observation deck. I turn up at the Museum which has a Dali exhibition – great I think – queue up to get in even though I have a ticket, another queue to exchange my ticket for an entry ticket and then I am directed to another and now very lengthy queue to check my back-back into the cloak room – too much for me I’m afraid so I simply go to the MOMA shop which I love and buy a lot of knick knacks.

After some walking it is back to the hotel as I have to check out by 16:00 and sit around for about 3 hours till I head for the airport. International flights depart from JFK I thought. Luckily I wonder around to the Peninsula Hotel to have a cappuccino and relax for an hour while I read the paper. For some reason I decide to look at my itinerary which is stored on my phone and.....you guessed it the plane leaves from Newark airport. No problem but I am batting 0 from 3 this holiday with time/airport cock-ups. I catch a limousine (yes it costs less than a taxi and lucky for me in this case) for the airport only to run into the most horrendous traffic jam. Mercifully limousines have fixed process and I have 4 hours before my flight. Anyway takes 1¾ hours to get there and I am still 2¼ early for my flight.

To my surprise the plane, an Airbus A340 has only 91 business class seats – no economy and no first – go figure.

Anyway this brings to an end my sojourn, vacance, timeout or whatever one wants to call it. Although I have enjoyed the me time immensely it has been a bittersweet experience. Not having Linda here has obviously been tough but spending a month with one’s grown up children is simply irreplaceable.

Love to all
Keep Well
David

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